Textile Fiber Types, Properties, and Manufacturing Processes

Textile Fibers: Definition and Properties

Items that have a solid and flexible filament, from which we obtain the threads used to manufacture textiles. Each fiber possesses specific properties and characteristics:

• Flexibility
• Smoothness
• Uniformity
• Tensile strength
• Depth (or Bulk)
• Water absorption and moisture retention
• Heat resistance

Raw Material → Textile Fibers → Manufactured Goods

Applications of Textile Threads

Textile fibers are processed into threads used for:

• The garment industry (clothing)
• Home textiles (e.g., bedding, curtains)
• Industrial applications

Classification of Textile Fibers

Natural Fibers

Fibers derived directly from natural sources:

• Vegetable (Cellulosic): Raffia, Cotton, Linen, Hemp, Jute
• Animal (Protein): Wool, Silk, Cashmere, Angora
• Mineral: Asbestos, Glass

Chemical Fibers

Fibers manufactured through chemical processes:

• Artificial (Regenerated): Rayon
• Synthetic: Acrylic, Polyamide, Polyester

Key Fiber Definitions

Cotton

Cotton: A white and soft fiber obtained from the seed of the cotton plant. It is easy to dye.

Wool

Wool: A white fiber obtained by shearing sheep. It is known for being a good thermal insulator.

Silk

Silk: A fiber of various colors and great length, obtained from the cocoons of the silkworm. It is soft and lustrous.

Textile Manufacturing Processes

Obtaining Chemical Fibers: Extrusion

Extrusion: The process of passing the materials that make up the fiber, while under pressure and in a liquid state, through very small diameter holes (spinnerets). This process yields filaments of the desired length.

Spinning

Spinning: The process that converts variable length fibers into thin, long, and resistant yarns, suitable for weaving without breakages. Spinning phases include:

1. Clearing and Combing fibers (to align them parallel)
2. Stretching
3. Twisting
4. Rolling the fibers (winding)

Basic Loom Components

Key components involved in weaving:

• Warp: Longitudinal threads
• Warp Beam: (Folding warp)
• Dobby: Mechanism for pattern weaving
• Shuttle: Carries the weft
• Batten: (Bata) Mechanism that beats the weft into place
• Weft: (Trama) Transverse threads
• Cloth Roll: (Folding canvas)

Textile Finishing (End Operations)

Finishing: The set of operations applied to a fabric to prepare it for its final use. This includes both chemical and mechanical treatments.

Chemical Treatments

Chemical treatments are used to enhance appearance and performance:

• Cleaning: Removal of fat and excess impurities.
• Dyeing (Tint): To provide uniform color throughout the piece.
• Stamping (Printing): Application of designs or drawings using one or several colors.
• Sizing: A treatment that makes the fabric more consistent and provides a more attractive finish.

Mechanical Treatments

Mechanical treatments modify the texture and surface of the fabric:

• Fulling (Batanatge): The surface of the garment is tightened (often applied to wool to increase density).
• Raising (Napping): Applied to fabrics, often wool, to pull fibers to the surface, creating a fuzzy texture.
• Shearing (Tondonsatge): Surface fibers or pile are cut evenly at the same height.