Hairstyle Types: Curling, Waving, Straightening & More
Classified in Chemistry
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Classification of Hairstyles
- Curling: Gives hair a ring-shaped design, loops, or corkscrews, adding volume.
- Waving (Inverter): Creates S-shaped waves in the hair, an intermediate effect between straightening and curling.
- Straightening (Smooth): Gives hair a smooth appearance by eliminating waves or curls.
- Updo (Collect): Involves arranging the hair in a specific way. Updos can be total or partial.
Hairstyle Change Duration
- Temporary: A change of form that produces a modification of the hair structure that lasts for a limited time (days, weeks).
- Permanent: A change in form that produces a structural modification that persists despite washing, brushing, coloring, shampooing, etc.
Temporary Changes
Temporary changes in hair shape primarily occur due to three factors:
- Humidity: Hair is porous and absorbs liquids. These liquids affect the structure of alpha-keratin, breaking hydrogen bonds and leading to beta-keratin, a more elastic and flexible structure.
- Heat: Drying hair, whether at room temperature or with heat, temporarily fixes the change as new hydrogen bonds form to fit the given shape.
- Mechanical Stretching: Both dry heat (iron) and wet heat (steam), combined with stretching, can alter alpha-keratin and its consequential effects.
Permanent Changes
Cosmetics Employed
- In the first phase, a reducing cosmetic: Is responsible for breaking disulfide bonds.
- In the second phase, a neutralizing cosmetic: Is responsible for the formation of new disulfide bonds that set the shape change.
Reducing Cosmetic
- Reducing Substance: Substances used in its composition contain the thio group (HS-). Mercaptoacetate acid provides hydrogen, breaking disulfide bonds by attaching to sulfur atoms.
- An Acid: Restores the normal pH of 4 to 5. Various acids can be used, such as citric (lemon), acetic (vinegar), or lactic (milk) acid.
- Excipients: For waving, distilled water is used. For smoothing, a cream presentation is suitable.
- Additives:
- Moisturizers: Facilitate the presentation and action of the oxidant.
- Foaming Agents: Facilitate the removal of the oxidant, preventing adherence.
- Conditioning Substances: Fats that facilitate detangling and provide softness and shine.