Aestheticism: Art for Art's Sake, Rebellion, and Dandyism

Understanding Aestheticism: Origins and Core Message

The term "Aestheticism" derives from the Greek word aisthesis, meaning "perception through the senses." This focus on sensory experience was also central to Romantic culture. Indeed, the movement has its roots in Romanticism, but it also signifies a distinct turn. Now, the artist, or more specifically the aesthete, must not only feel sensations but actively live them in their own life. The core message of Aestheticism is often summarized as "Living for beauty!"

The Aesthete and the Poète Maudit: Rebels Against Society

The figure of the aesthete presents some correspondences with the French figure of the "poète maudit" (cursed poet), who rejects all societal values and conventions. The poète maudit often chooses paths associated with 'evil,' leading a dissolute, unregulated life, sometimes to the point of self-destruction through vice, alcohol, and drugs. Both the aesthete and the poète maudit reject bourgeois normality.

The poète maudit often follows a quasi-mystical cult of art and may exalt evil for its perceived aesthetic value—its sublime or horrid beauty. Similarly, the aesthete rejects conventional moral rules, sometimes even accepting crime as an expression of absolute freedom from constraints.

Artistic Ideals: Medieval Craftsmanship vs. Victorian Rules

Aestheticism often evoked a return to the ideals of medieval art, where the artist was seen as a craftsman creating unique works through pure creativity, free from the rigid academic rules characteristic of Victorian society. This ideal emphasized the artist creating the entire work, not just a part.

Key Figures in Aestheticism

John Keats, a prominent figure of the second generation of Romantic poets, can be considered a forerunner of the movement. In Italy, a key representative of Aestheticism is Gabriele D’Annunzio, particularly through the character Andrea Sperelli in his novel Il Piacere (1889), who serves as another significant model of the aesthete.

Oscar Wilde's Dandy: The Case of Dorian Gray

Oscar Wilde's character, Dorian Gray, represents the quintessential dandy. The dandy, as conceived by Wilde, is:

• A heroic figure protesting against democratic leveling.
• At ease in every situation, never surprised or vulgar.
• Opposed to social conventions.
• Driven by the ideal of crafting an inimitable life.

However, this very ideal ultimately leads Dorian Gray to perversion. The novel's allegorical meaning underscores the absolute and eternal value of art itself.